Day 5 Journal: Majdanek and Shabbat

20 May 2011: Majdanek Concentration Camp, drive to Warsaw, Shabbat dinner

Approaching the Soviet Memorial at Majdanek. What do you
see in the stones?

My only experiences with Lublin are a mix of emotion. I didn't go out to explore the town last night, although it looks gorgeous: it's centre block very stereotypical European: cobble stone streets littered with patios and surrounded by gorgeous old buildings and architecture. I did, however, explore at noon time today, over laughs of being jipped on gelato and not quite knowing what I ordered for lunch. I am a very proud Canadian, and as much as I am falling in love with Europe, Canada is always home to me. We, too, have a rich history and gorgeous street and landscapes, we just don't recognize it until we're away from home.

The unique and lovely (frustrating? annoying? hysterical?) experience that was lunch was after a very emotional morning at Majdanek, one of the camps where Pinchas was sent during the occupation of Poland, and the "Final Solution".

Gas Chamber at Majdanek Extermination Camp. Hole on R
was used to insert gas into the chamber, hole on L to watch
/ ensure all are dead.

Majdanek is located only 4km from the centre of Lublin, Poland. Hauntingly close to civilization, I couldn't help but wonder, and be angry, about the Poles and other civilians living nearby that had to have known about the atrocities taking place, literally in their backyard. Were the repercussions really that bad to stand up for a human right? I don't know what would have happened, and I really don't know what I would have done, had it been me, but I can't imagine living with myself knowing that maybe I could have saved one soul.

Majdanek, an extermination camp with the crematorium still "intact" was haunting to be at. I can't say today was harder than being at Auschwitz or Birkenau, but it was difficult actually being in the crematorium. I just can't imagine being directed to load bodies into the ovens. I can't imagine the smell of these bodies, the smoke, the ash, overriding the whole camp, the surrounding town...

I've never been fully affected hearing that 6 million were murdered during the Holocaust. I can't relate to that number; I've never seen 6 million of something. But seeing 20,000 pairs of shoes in one of the barracks made it real. I could physically see the number. I couldn't believe the amount. And the smell of the hot leather, the stale air in the barracks. This was powerful.

Memorial at Majdanek. Standing area
between the stone and the "cap". Ash
located in the centre, seen from standing
area.

What really touched me today was the memorial next to the crematorium. 70,000 tonnes of human ash. And one human makes approximately 2 cups. A number is just that; but this almost put a face to it. I was standing looking at how many thousand people. A quick google search of the weight of human ash and the number of pounds in a tonne tells me that we were looking at roughly 47,000 people. We had a small ceremony here, at the memorial. Pinchas sung hymns and heartbreaking testimonies to family members that escaped the war and did not endure this, were read.

This was so powerful and emotional for me: we all truly shared a connection - the same cause. We were not only honoring those whose ashes were in front of us, but those who were brave, strong, and hopeful...the past, the present, and the future.

I felt so proud to be there at that moment; so blessed to be with such wonderful friends, my new family, and to offer a shoulder, a hand to hold, or just that special connection...that we all can unite and care for humanity.

This evening was also the Shabbat dinner: to welcome the Sabbath at sundown, for the Jewish day of rest. I am so thankful to have done this trip; where I not only had the opportunity to visit these sites - some which I never would have on my own as a tourist - but to be accompanied by several people of the Jewish faith, whether religious or cultural. This has given me such an opportunity to really enhance and further my own knowledge, and now I don't want to stop. Being able to take part in and listen to many different hymns and prayers of the Jewish faith, has enhanced this learning experience for me. Music played such a large role for the Jews in these camps, as it kept them grounded, and was also an important factor in this trip.

Shabbat Dinner at the hotel, in Warsaw.

The Shabbat was a beautiful ceremony as more hymns were sung and we were all invited to join in - I felt honored. The pre-dinner ceremony included sharing our own personal narratives; what is family? Tradition? Community? On top of this, dinner was delicious, and I may or may not have eaten too much hallah bread. I will be doing a whole post on the role of music, and our ceremonies, at a later date. Stay tuned...


Please check out these two links (here and here) for a compiled video on our day at Majdanek, as composed by Dmitri Panfilenko, one of the students on the trip.

Another article, should you be interested: "Germany's WWII Occupation of Poland", from Spiegel Online International.

"I know that people can be taught to hate, but I also know that people can be taught to love" - Juliet Karugache, MRH 2001